烤肠英文简介（法国的Andouillette熏肠有多受欢迎）

法国特鲁瓦辣熏肠(Andouillette de Troyes)是一种法式熏香肠，也有称它为内脏肠。这种传统的法式香肠是将猪肉或者猪的内脏杂碎切成条状，卷起来塞入猪的结肠内，所以这种香肠有着特殊的腐败气味。特鲁瓦辣熏肠是世界著名的香槟酒产地法国北部阿登地区的特产。

奇葩难闻的香肠与久负盛名的香槟酒在这里完美结合，可谓“相得益彰”。据了解，这种香肠的历史可追溯到中世纪，而且纯手工制作。这种香肠可以直接食用，但加热之后味道会散发的更完全，对于喜欢特鲁瓦辣熏肠的人来说，是一种莫大的享受。

A francophile who hasn't been to Paris in years may find himself so excited at breakfast that he orders andouillettes, the single most French thing on the menu. These subvert the old adage that warns against watching sausage being made: there is no mystery to them.

一位多年未去巴黎的亲法派人士可能会在吃早餐时异常兴奋地点上一份最具法国特色的一道菜：特鲁瓦辣熏肠。但这一美食却让一句古老格言分分钟站不住脚了,因为该格言告诫人们不要观看香肠制作过程，也没什么可看的。

They are simply pigs' intestines stuffed into a casing, then boiled or grilled. They have aslithery, entropic texture—slice into them and little grey curlicues slide out—and smell like a urine-soaked barnyard.

这种香肠的制作方法就是将猪肠塞进肠衣里，然后煮熟或烤熟。香肠表面有一层滑溜溜的渐变纹理——一刀切下去，灰色的肠肉便会滑出来——闻起来像被尿浸湿的仓院。

Brought up on cornflakes and toast, the Francophile's children are unconvinced, and stick with pain au chocolat. In their scepticism, they have plenty of company. Barbecuers in Texas nickname their spicy sausage “hot guts”, but at least it looks like a sausage, and tastes good.

吃着玉米片和烤面包长大的崇拜法国的孩子们并不相信，他们仍旧一直吃着法式巧克力面包。还有很多人同他们一样心存疑虑。德克萨斯州的烧烤师傅给他们的辣香肠起了个绰号叫“热肠”，但至少它看起来像香肠，而且味道不错。

Andouillettes look like actual guts, and the best that can be said of their flavour is that it is better than their stench. Their declining popularity—not just at your correspondent's table but among French diners as a whole—testifies to the importance of an often overlooked culinary skill: subterfuge.

特鲁瓦辣熏肠看起来就像真正的内脏，关于它们的味道，最友好的说法是它吃起来没那么臭。特鲁瓦辣熏肠越来越不受欢迎了（不仅是本刊记者个人，而且在整个法国食客中），这证明一项经常被忽视的烹饪技巧的重要性：掩藏。

Parents know this trick well. Grating courgette into pasta sauce is a good way to add vegetables to the diets of picky youngsters. Donald Trump’s doctor in the White House also used this ruse, getting cauliflower mixed into his patient’s mashed potatoes. But for most grown-ups, the ingredient that requires disguise is meat.

父母深知这一招。将小胡瓜磨碎放入意大利面酱中，这样挑剔的年轻人就能在面中吃到些蔬菜了。唐纳德·特朗普的白宫医生也使用了这个技巧，将花椰菜混入病人的土豆泥中。但对于大多数成年人来说，需要掩藏的食材是肉。

Devotees of andouillettes—such as the Association Amicale des Amateurs d’Andouillettes Authentiques (Friendly Association of Lovers of Authentic Andouillettes), which certifies the best in France—may scorn those who blanch at them.

特鲁瓦辣熏肠爱好者——比如Association Amicale des Amateurs d’Andouillettes Authentiques（正宗特鲁瓦辣熏肠爱好者交流协会），该协会被认为是法国最好的特鲁瓦辣熏肠协会——可能会鄙视那些对他们嗤之以鼻的人。

Even they might concede, however, that a wide gulf separates good from mediocre andouillettes, as is also true of, say, hot dogs. But a mediocre hot dog is still a hot dog. A mediocre andouillette is botched abdominal surgery on a plate.

然而，就连他们也会承认，上等特鲁瓦辣熏肠与普通的特鲁瓦辣熏肠之间也存在巨大的差别，就像热狗一样。但普通的热狗还是热狗。而一份普通的特鲁瓦辣熏肠就像在盘子里做的一场拙劣的腹部手术。

And though some gourmets may revile hot dogs, they are a triumph of culinary subterfuge, as are many other sausages. Butchers developed this skill of necessity. The first, say, three-quarters of cutting up an animal for consumption—hams, ribs, loin, belly—is relatively straightforward. But what to do with the organs and other unappetising scraps?

尽管有些美食家可能会痛骂热狗，但它们是烹饪技巧的胜利，其他许多香肠也是如此。屠夫们发展了这项必要的技能。比如说，第一种方法是将动物四分之三的部位（大腿、排骨、里脊、腹部）切割以供食用，这相对简单。但如何处理那些器官和其他令人倒胃口的残片呢？

German immigrants taught Americans to boil and mix them with oats and cornmeal to make goetta and scrapple, which are shaped into loaves, then sliced and fried crisp; served on toast, there is no better winter breakfast.

德国移民教美国人将它们与燕麦和玉米粉一起煮，做成goetta和scrapple，然后切片并炸脆；搭配吐司，没有比这更好的冬季早餐了。

A more widespread answer is to chop the bits up, season and pack them into casings—made from the animal’s intestines, another leftover—and turn them into sausage. For a hot dog, the meat is pounded into a paste (though most today contain no offal).

一种更普遍的做法是将碎肉切碎，调味后装入肠衣（由动物的肠子制成，是动物屠宰后另一种剩下的材料），做成香肠。制作热狗则是把肉捣碎成糊状（尽管现在大多数热狗都不含内脏）。

Nowadays most sausages are industrially made, and andouillettes are artisanal. To some that makes them worth defending as a holdout against processed uniformity, a stance that in theory has avirtuous appeal. In practice, there are as many ways to disguise scraps and offal as sausage as there are sausage-makers. Almost all of them taste better than andouillettes.

现在大多数香肠都是工业化加工生产的，而特鲁瓦辣熏肠则是手工制作而成。对一些人来说，该点非常具有说服力，因为他们反对对香肠进行统一化的工厂加工。实际上，有多少香肠制造商，就有多少方法可以将下脚料和内脏伪装成香肠。而且几乎所有香肠的味道都比特鲁瓦辣熏肠要好。